In short: You can make the vast majority of jewelry with three pliers – round nose pliers for loops, pointed flat nose pliers for holding and opening jump rings, and cutting pliers for cutting. The rest is specialty tools you can add once you find out what you most like making. In this guide we go through all the types, explain the difference between a hobby plier and a brand-name plier, and help you choose so you neither buy too little nor too much.
[[/baggrund]] [[baggrund: hvid]]When you start making jewelry, you quickly discover that your fingers aren't enough. The jump rings need to be opened, the pins need a neat loop, and the wire needs to be cut so the end doesn't stick out. This is where the right tools make the difference between a piece that looks homemade and a piece that looks handmade.
Perhaps you're asking yourself: Which pliers do I actually need? Should I buy a set or individual pliers? And is it worth paying more for a brand-name plier? These are questions we get often, and the answer depends on what you want to make and how much you plan to make it.
In this guide we calmly go through all types of jewelry tools – from the three pliers everyone needs, to specialty pliers, needles, measuring tools and what you can add when you want to go further. Along the way we use examples from our own range, so you can see what the different choices cost with us.
[[/baggrund]]Why ordinary pliers aren't enough
It's tempting to grab the pliers from the toolbox, but they're made for something completely different. Pliers from the hardware store usually have serrated jaws that give a good grip on a nut – and leave clear marks in soft silver, copper or gold-plated wire. They're also too wide to get in between two beads, and too coarse to make a small, round loop.
Jewelry pliers are built differently. The jaws are smooth and polished so they don't scratch, they're narrow enough to reach tight spots, and they're light so you can work with them for hours. It's not decoration – it's the difference between being able to make a neat result or not.
The three pliers you should start with
Whether you make earrings, bracelets or necklaces, you'll use the same three pliers again and again. If you have them, you can get very far.
Round nose pliers – for loops and curves
Round nose pliers have two round, smooth jaws that taper toward the tip. They're used for anything that needs to be round: the loop on a pin, a small figure eight, a spiral or a soft curve on a piece of wire.
The size of the loop is determined by where on the jaw you bend the wire – closest to the tip gives the smallest loop, further in gives a larger one. If you need to make many identical loops, you can put a small mark on the jaw with a marker so you hit the same spot every time.
A good tip: Use the round nose pliers for shaping, not for holding. If you squeeze hard with the round jaws, the wire gets small marks. Hold with the pointed flat nose pliers instead when the loop needs to be closed.
With us you'll find a classic pair of round nose pliers for 49 kr., which is fine to start with, and round nose pliers from Beadsmith (129 kr.) and Beadalon in stainless steel (159 kr.) if you want pliers that last for many years.
[[produkter: klassisk-rundtang-wirearbejde-13cm, beadsmith-rundtang-ergonomisk-handtag-13cm, beadalon-rundtang-i-rustfrit-stal-smykkevaerktoj-12-7-cm]]Pointed flat nose pliers (chain nose pliers) – for holding, bending and opening jump rings
The pointed flat nose pliers are the pliers you'll have in your hand the most. The jaws are flat on the inside and rounded on the outside, and they taper to a point so you can get in where there's almost no room. You use them to hold wire and jewelry findings, bend sharp angles, close the loop on a pin, and to open and close jump rings.
There's a technique for jump rings that's worth learning from the start: A jump ring should never be pulled outward so the ring becomes larger. Instead, hold each side with a pair of pliers and twist the two ends past each other – one toward you, the other away from you. That way the ends find their way precisely back to each other when you close it again, and the ring keeps its shape. If you have two pointed flat nose pliers, it's easiest.
In some shops they're called "pointed pliers" or "chain nose pliers" – it's the same pliers. We carry them in a classic version for 49 kr. and from Beadsmith (139 kr.) and Beadalon (159 kr.).
[[produkter: smal-naeset-fladtang-staal, spids-fladtang-beadsmith-staal, beadalon-fladtang-i-rustfrit-stal-smykkevaerktoj-12-7-cm]]Cutting pliers – for cutting
Cutting pliers cut wire, pins, chain and soft metal wire. The most commonly used type for jewelry is the side cutters, where the cutting edge is on the side of the pliers so you can cut right up against a bead or a loop.
If you look at the cutting edge, you'll see that some cutting pliers are ground at an angle on both sides, while others – the ones called flush cut – are completely flat on one side. This gives a flat, smooth wire end without the little point that can otherwise scratch the skin or catch on clothing. Turn the flat side of the cutting edge toward the jewelry and the angled side toward the piece you're cutting off, and the end will be neatest.
One thing is important to know about cutting pliers: They're made for soft metal. If you cut memory wire or other hardened steel wire with your jewelry cutting pliers, it leaves a permanent nick in the cutting edge – and then it will never cut cleanly again. For that you need a Hard Wire Cutter, which we'll come back to.
We have a classic pair of cutting pliers for 49 kr., Beadsmith's ergonomic side cutters (129 kr.), Beadalon's side cutters with flush cut (119 kr.) and Beadalon's Designer Series (159 kr.).
[[produkter: klassisk-bidetang, beadsmith-bidetang-ergonomisk-13cm, beadalon-skaevbider-13-cm-til-smykkewire-og-blode-metaller, beadalon-skaevbider-designer-series-12-cm]]Quick overview – which pliers for what
Here are the most important pliers gathered in one place, so you can quickly see what each of them can do and when it makes sense to have them:
| Tool | What you use it for | Characteristics | Our price | When do you need it? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Round nose pliers | Loops on pins, curves, spirals and figure eights | Round, smooth jaws that taper toward the tip | 49–159 kr. | From the start – one of the three basic pliers |
| Pointed flat nose pliers | Holding, bending sharp angles, closing loops and opening jump rings | Flat jaws on the inside and a narrow tip | 49–159 kr. | From the start – preferably two, so jump rings are easy to open |
| Cutting pliers (side cutters) | Cutting wire, pins, chain and soft metal wire | Cutting edge on the side – flush cut gives a flat wire end | 49–159 kr. | From the start – one of the three basic pliers |
| Crimp bead pliers | Closing crimp beads into a small, round and smooth ball | Two notches in the jaws | 129–199 kr. | When you make necklaces and bracelets on jewelry wire |
| Split ring pliers | Opening split rings so the pendant can be slid on | Small hook on one jaw | 99–159 kr. | When you use split rings |
| Looping pliers / 1-Step Looper | Loops that turn out exactly the same every time | Fixed steps in mm – or cut and loop in one motion | 139–349 kr. | When you make many identical earrings or pendants |
| Nylon-coated flat nose pliers | Straightening wire and holding shiny jewelry findings | Nylon jaws that don't leave marks | 69–139 kr. | For wire wrapping and gold-plated surfaces |
| Hard Wire Cutter | Cutting memory wire and hardened steel wire | Extra hard cutting edge that withstands hard wire | 169–499 kr. | When you work with memory wire |
The prices cover the range from our classic pliers to Beadsmith and Beadalon.
Hobby pliers or brand-name pliers – what do you get for the money?
This is probably the question we hear most often, and it deserves an honest answer. A hobby plier for 39–50 kr. and a plier from Beadsmith or Beadalon for 119–159 kr. look alike in the picture. The difference is in the details, and you only notice it once you've had the pliers in your hand for a while.
The jaws. On a brand-name plier the jaws are ground and polished so they close completely tight along their entire length and don't leave marks in the wire. On a hobby plier there can be small irregularities from the casting, and the jaws don't always close completely at the tip – which means a little less grip on the finest wires.
The joint. Many brand-name pliers – including Beadalon's Designer Series – have what's called a box joint, where one plier arm is passed through the other. It keeps the jaws in exactly the same position year after year. Hobby pliers typically have a simpler joint, where the arms lie on top of each other, and which over time can develop a little play, so the jaws don't meet completely evenly.
Spring and grip. Brand-name pliers have a spring that opens the pliers again after each squeeze, and a softer grip that distributes the pressure in your hand. If you make 50 loops in an evening, it's the difference between tired fingers and not.
The cutting edge. On cutting pliers the cutting edge is what differs most. A hardened, precisely ground cutting edge cuts cleanly for many years; a softer edge goes dull faster, and then it starts to squeeze the wire rather than cut it.
The honest advice: If you're unsure how much you'll be making, a classic plier for 49 kr. is a fine place to start. It can do all the basics, and you learn the technique just as well with it. If you discover that you're sitting with pliers several times a week, or that you'd like to sell what you make, the upgrade to Beadsmith or Beadalon is worth the money – not because they can do anything new, but because they do the same thing a little better, every time, for many years.
Set or individual pliers?
A tool set is the easiest way in. You get the three basic pliers, often supplemented with a couple of extras, in a case that keeps everything organized. Our Pandahall sets with 4–5 pieces (149–179 kr.) are a sensible beginner set, while Beadsmith's set with 5 pliers (449 kr.) and the ergonomic set with case (549 kr.) give you brand-name quality from the start. If you want everything at once, there's The Ultimate Set with 8 pieces (549 kr.) in four colors.
[[kollektion: vaerktojssaet | Tool Sets for Jewelry]]If you buy individual pliers, on the other hand, you can put together exactly what you use, and choose a more expensive pair of cutting pliers and a cheaper pair of round nose pliers if that's where you prioritize. Many start with a set and then replace the pliers they use most.
If you have very little space, a 4-in-1 plier from Beadsmith (169 kr.) is an alternative: round nose pliers, pointed flat nose pliers, crimp bead pliers and cutter in one tool. It doesn't replace three good pliers for daily use, but it's ideal in your bag or for vacation.
Specialty pliers that make certain tasks easier
Once you have the three basic pliers, you can handle almost everything. Specialty pliers don't do anything you can't already do – they make it faster, neater or more uniform. Here are the ones that are most often worth the effort.
Crimp bead pliers
If you make necklaces and bracelets on jewelry wire, you finish with a crimp bead at the clasp. You can squash it flat with flat nose pliers, but the result becomes angular and holds worse. Crimp bead pliers have two notches in the jaws: The first folds the crimp bead around the wire, the second rounds it into a small, smooth ball. It holds better, and it looks far neater. We carry Beadsmith's crimp bead pliers (189 kr.), also in a pack with 100 crimp beads (199 kr.), and a simple version in carbon steel for 129 kr.
[[produkter: products-klemmeperletang-beadsmith-med-100-klemmeperler, klemmetang-med-wirebider-roed-kulstofstaal-12-8x8-3x0-9cm-1-stk]]Split ring pliers and jump ring opener
Split rings are the double-coiled rings you know from a key ring – very secure, but awkward to open with a fingernail. Split ring pliers have a small hook on the jaw that lifts one coil, so you can slide the pendant on. We have them from Beadalon (139 kr.), Beadsmith (159 kr.) and in a classic version (99 kr.).
The jump ring opener is a small brass ring you put on your finger, with notches in different widths. You put the jump ring in the notch and twist with one pair of pliers instead of two. It costs 18 kr. and saves a lot of time if you're attaching many jump rings.
Looping pliers and 1-Step Looper
Round nose pliers can make loops in all sizes, but it requires that you hit the same spot every time. Looping pliers have fixed, round steps – e.g. 2, 3, 4 mm – so the loops turn out exactly the same, no matter how many you make. We have them with 3 steps, 6 steps in several size ranges (1–4 mm and 2–9 mm) and a set with 10 sizes.
The 1-Step Looper goes a step further: It cuts the wire and forms the loop in one motion. It comes for 1.5 mm, 2.25 mm and 3 mm loops (349 kr.) and is ideal if you make many pins or ear hooks and want them completely identical. It works best on 18–20 gauge wire and is not intended for stainless steel wire.
Nylon-coated flat nose pliers
A flat nose pliers with nylon jaws can straighten bent wire and grip gold-plated or lacquered jewelry findings without leaving the slightest mark. If you work with wire wrapping or shiny surfaces, it's nice to have.
Pliers for crimp covers and bead knotters
Crimp covers can be closed with pointed flat nose pliers, but a plier with round notches closes them into a fine, even ball every time. A bead knotter helps you place the knot right up against the bead when you string freshwater pearls on silk thread – it's the technique behind classic pearl necklaces without gaps.
[[kollektion: vaerktoj-special-vaerktoj | Specialty Tools for Jewelry]]Hard Wire Cutter for memory wire
Memory wire is hardened spring steel, and it's harder than the cutting edge of any ordinary jewelry cutting pliers. Beadalon's Hard Wire Cutter (499 kr.) is made for exactly that – and for protecting your other pliers. If you'd rather start a bit cheaper, Beadsmith's cutting pliers for hard wire have a tungsten carbide cutting edge (169 kr.), which also handle memory wire and steel wire. If you work with memory wire for bracelets or rings, such a plier is unavoidable.
[[produkter: beadalon-memory-wire-tang-hard-wire-cutter-professionel-serie-14-6-cm, side-cutter-bidetang-beadsmith-115mm]]Needles and thread helpers
Beads on thread require a different kind of tool than beads on wire, and here it's the needles that make the difference.
Big eye needle (also called a split needle). The needle has a long, elongated eye that opens so you can put the thread in without having to aim. It's ideal for elastic, thicker thread and for those of you who have trouble threading ordinary needles. Our big eye needles come in 75, 113 and 125 mm (12–14 kr.) and are among our best sellers.
Beading needles in fixed sizes. For weaving and small beads like Miyuki 11/0 and 15/0 you need a stiff, thin beading needle with a small eye that can pass through the same bead several times. The rule of thumb is that a higher number means a thinner needle: For 11/0, size 10 or 12 fits, for 15/0 size 12 or 13. The thin needles bend over time, so count them as consumables and buy a pack at a time.
Twisted needle with flexible eye. The needle is twisted from thin wire, and the eye collapses when it's pulled through the bead. It's good for silk thread and for beads with slightly uneven holes, e.g. freshwater pearls.
Needle with hook. Used together with a bead spinner, where the beads jump onto the needle by themselves when the bowl turns.
Beeswax and needle threaders. Beeswax is drawn over nylon thread so it doesn't tangle and fray. The needle threader is a thin wire loop that helps the thread through the smallest needle eyes. Small things that save you a lot of irritation.
Thread burner. A small battery-powered pen with a hot tip that cuts and melts synthetic thread right at the knot, so the end doesn't fray or come undone. It's used for FireLine, WildFire and nylon – not for silk or cotton, which don't melt.
[[kollektion: nale | Needles for Beadwork]]Measuring tools – so it fits the first time
A piece of jewelry that fits right is a piece of jewelry that gets worn. A little measuring equipment makes it easy to hit the right size.
Measuring tape for bracelets. Measure the wrist close to the skin, where the bracelet will sit. Typically add 1–2 cm, and a little more if the beads are large, as they take up space on the inside. Common women's sizes are around 16–19 cm, men's sizes around 19–22 cm.
Ring sizer and ring mandrel. Danish ring sizes are the inner circumference of the ring in millimeters – a size 54 thus has a 54 mm circumference, corresponding to roughly 17.2 mm in diameter. The ring sizer finds the finger's size, the mandrel measures and straightens the ring itself. If you choose a wide ring, you typically need to go up half to a whole size.
Digital caliper. For those of you who want to know whether the bead is 4 or 4.5 mm, how thick the wire is, or how large a jump ring needs to be to fit. It measures down to 0.01 mm, and it removes the guesswork when you order jewelry findings.
For necklaces, the most commonly used lengths are: choker approx. 36–40 cm, short necklace 42–45 cm, medium 50–55 cm, long 60–70 cm and extra long from 80 cm, which can be worn doubled.
Your workspace
The best tools only help if you can find the beads when you need them.
A bead mat in soft foam keeps the beads from rolling away and makes it easy to pick them up with the needle. A bead stopper is a small spring clip you put on the end of the wire so the beads don't fall off while you design. The Third Hand holds your work in a fixed position, so you have both hands free for the fine work. And a magnifier with light makes the smallest details – a small gap between two jump ring ends, a crimp bead that isn't sitting quite straight – easy to see without tiring your eyes.
If you sit with pliers for longer periods at a time, this is also where the ergonomic grips and the spring on the brand-name pliers really make a difference.
For those who want to go further
Once the basic techniques are in place, new doors open. Here are the tools we're most often asked about when customers want to try something new:
- A bead reamer with a diamond-coated tip enlarges and smooths holes in natural stone and glass beads, so the thread isn't worn and thicker wire can get through. Use it with a little water and light pressure.
- A hammer and steel block are used to harden and flatten wire so it becomes shape-stable, and to give surfaces texture.
- A bead loom stretches the threads taut so you can weave patterns in Miyuki Delica and other small beads for bracelets and bands.
- A bead spinner fills the thread with small beads in a few seconds when you make long strands or fringes in one color.
How to take care of your pliers
A good plier can last for many years if you treat it properly. Wipe the pliers dry after use, especially if you've had damp hands, and store them dry – preferably in a case so the jaws don't knock against each other. A drop of acid-free oil in the joint a couple of times a year keeps them easy to open; wipe off the excess so it doesn't rub off on beads and thread.
Always cut as close to the joint as possible, so you spare the fine tips, and never use the cutting pliers on memory wire or other steel wire. If a pair of cutting pliers starts to squeeze the wire rather than cut it, or you can see a small gap of light between the blades when it's closed, it's time for a new one.
How to choose your tools
There's no single right answer – it depends on what you want to make and how often:
- If you're starting completely from scratch, a beginner set or three classic pliers at 49 kr. each is a sensible place to begin.
- If you already know that jewelry will be your regular hobby, go straight to Beadsmith or Beadalon – then you avoid buying twice.
- If you make necklaces and bracelets on wire, crimp bead pliers are the first thing to add.
- If you make many earrings or pendants with identical loops, looping pliers or a 1-Step Looper save you a lot of time.
- If you weave or sew with small beads, it's the needles, the beeswax and the thread burner that make the difference.
- If you work with memory wire, you need a Hard Wire Cutter – otherwise you'll ruin your other pliers.
Which pliers do I need to make jewelry?
Three pliers cover almost everything: round nose pliers for loops, pointed flat nose pliers for holding and opening jump rings, and cutting pliers for cutting. Everything else you can add as you go.
What is the difference between round nose pliers and flat nose pliers?
Round nose pliers have round jaws and are used to form round loops and curves. Flat nose pliers have flat jaws and are used to hold, bend right angles and open jump rings. The pointed flat nose pliers are the narrow version that can reach tight spots.
What is the difference between cutting pliers, side cutters and a flush cutter?
Cutting pliers is the broad term for a plier that cuts. Side cutters are the type where the cutting edge is on the side, so you can cut close. Flush cut means that the cutting edge is flat on one side and gives a completely flat wire end without a point.
Can I use ordinary pliers from the toolbox?
You can, but they will leave marks in the wire because the jaws are serrated, and they're too wide for fine work. Jewelry pliers have smooth, narrow jaws precisely to avoid that.
Why does my plier leave marks in the wire?
Either the jaws have grooves or small irregularities, or you're squeezing harder than necessary. Polished jaws and a light grip solve most of it; for very shiny or gold-plated surfaces, a nylon-coated plier is the safest.
Is an expensive jewelry plier better than a cheap one?
It doesn't do anything new, but it does the same thing more precisely and for longer: polished jaws, box joint without play, spring, better grip and a cutting edge that stays sharp. For learning the technique a hobby plier is fine – if you use the pliers often, the upgrade is worth the money.
How do I open a jump ring without it getting bent out of shape?
Hold each side of the jump ring with a pair of pliers, and twist the ends past each other – one toward you, the other away from you. Never pull the ring outward. Twist back the same way when you close it, so the ends meet precisely.
Which needle fits Miyuki 11/0 and 15/0?
For 11/0 you use a beading needle in size 10 or 12. For 15/0 you use size 12 or 13, especially if the thread needs to pass through the same bead several times. The big eye needle is for thicker thread and elastic, not for the smallest beads.
May I cut memory wire with my cutting pliers?
No. Memory wire is hardened steel and leaves a permanent nick in the cutting edge. Use a Hard Wire Cutter, which is made for hard wire.
[[/faq]]Important to remember
You don't need everything from the start. Three good pliers will take you very far, and you can add the rest as you find out what you most like making. If you choose a hobby plier, you learn the technique just as well – and if you choose a brand-name plier, you get a tool that stays with you for many years.
At Uniq Perler we've gathered both the simple beginner set and the pliers used by those who make jewelry every day. If you're unsure what fits your project, you're always welcome to write to us – we're happy to help you choose.