A wire rounder is used to smooth the sharp edges of the cut wire ends. When you cut wire with flat nose pliers, the edge is often left sharp, and it can both scratch against the skin and catch on clothing.

Simply rotate the wire rounder over the wire end until it feels completely smooth. You can make the bracelet without it, but it's a small detail that makes a noticeable difference in how comfortable the jewelry feels to wear – and it only takes a few seconds per end.

Yes, you can easily use other gemstone beads or crystal beads, and the technique works exactly the same way.

The most important thing is that the beads' holes can fit the 1.0 mm base wire, and that the shape works well in two parallel rows. Faceted rondelles in 6 x 8 mm or round beads between 6 and 8 mm give the nicest result, because the rows become even and the wrapping wire has something to grip between the beads.

The two wires each have their own role in the bracelet:

• The base wire (1.0 mm) is thick and sturdy and acts as the bracelet's skeleton. It ensures that the bracelet keeps its soft curved shape and doesn't lose its form when you put it on and take it off.
• The wrapping wire (0.6 mm) is thinner and more flexible. It's easy to guide tightly around and between the beads, so the two rows are locked closely together in the characteristic zig-zag and X pattern.

Use jewelry pliers with completely smooth jaws that have no grooves or teeth on the inside – ridged pliers leave small marks in the plating that can't be sanded away again.

Keep a firm but gentle grip with both the flat nose pliers and round nose pliers when shaping the closing loops, and avoid moving the pliers back and forth over the same spot on the wire.

Measure your wrist and add about 4–5 cm to each end. This gives you plenty of wire to make neat, tight wraps at both closing loops, with a bit left to trim off at the end.

Also remember that the clasp itself adds around 1 cm to the finished length, so it's a good idea to hold the bracelet up against your wrist before shaping the second closing loop.

The video itself is under four minutes long, but expect to spend around half an hour the first time you make the bracelet. The technique requires no prior experience – the two closing loops are the part that takes a bit of practice, and they'll look neater each time.

If you'd like to practice first, it's a good idea to shape a couple of loops on a piece of cheaper practice wire before starting on the gold-plated one.

Usually it just needs a couple of extra wraps. The zig-zag pattern should be pulled tight each time the wire crosses between two beads, and you can always add an extra turn around the base wire along the way if a single bead sits too loosely.

The cross-wrap back in the opposite direction also tightens up the construction, so wait to assess the result until both directions have been done.

Take the bracelet off before bathing, exercising, or using lotion and perfume – gold-plated wire lasts longest when it isn't exposed to water and chemicals. Store it in a small pouch or box by itself so the beads don't scratch against other jewelry.

With that kind of care, both the plating and the shine of the beads will last a very long time.